Anatoliy Stone® Proper Application

Carefully read and follow these recommended installation instructions and check your local Building Code requirements as they may vary from area to area. Anatoliy Stone® products should only be applied to structurally sound surfaces having good building practices. It is important to divert water run-off away from stone surfaces by using gutters, flashing and cant strips. Splashing or run-off of water may stain the stone. During severe freeze-thaw conditions with a water run-off on stone could result in a damaged surface. The use of Anatoliy Stone® Caps, Watertables and sills can be used to provide adequate run-off protection. Flat or corner pieces should not be used to cap walls or on exterior horizontal planes in high freeze-thaw areas. Anatoliy Stone® products should not be used below water level or in applications that subject the material to chlorine or chemicals that may discolor the product.

Laying Stone Out

Laying stone out will help give you a selection of stone to choose from. Lay out a minimum of 25 s.f. of stone near the work area depending on how much square footage you have. When installing stone, try to achieve a balanced pattern of colors, shapes, sizes, textures and thicknesses by selecting and mixing the various stones from different boxes throughout the installation.

Beginning

 When installing Anatoliy Stone® products it can be applied from the top down or from the bottom up, either way is preferred. To keep the stone clean we recommend starting from the top down. For a Jointless/Drystacked installation stone is applied from the bottom up. Install the corners first for easier fitting. Corner pieces have a long end and a short end. These should be installed in opposite directions on the wall corner.

Fitting Stones

Stones should be installed with uniform size grout joints. A consistent ½” or less space around the stones is allowed. Straight, long and/or unbroken joint lines should be avoided. Chalk lines should be snapped every 4” to 8” as a guide for keeping the installation level and then a level should be used during the installation for individual stones.

Trimming Stones

Always use safety glasses when trimming and cutting. When trimming or cutting with a grinder or saw always use appropriate/approved dust masks. For better fit, stones can be shaped or cut using a hatchet or a mason’s trowel edge. Straight cuts can be made with a carbide or diamond saw blade or small hand grinder. Cut edges should be turned so they are not visible(apply cut side down when below eye level and cut side up when above eye level). To conceal cut or broken edges, cover them with mortar.

Setting the stone

Using a mason’s trowel, apply a ½” thick even layer of mortar to the entire back of the stone. Then press the stone firmly into place on the prepared wall surface with a wiggly action, squeezing the mortar out around all edges. For Jointless/Drystacked installations it’s important when setting the stone, that the edges of the stone are properly sealed with mortar to ensure a permanent bond. If accidentally any mortar gets on the stone face, do not try to wipe it off as it will smear and stain the stone. The mortar should be allowed to set until dry and crumbly, and then brushed off with a dry whisk broom.

Wetting the Stone

Under certain conditions the stone may need to be dampened. If the stone is being installed in a hot/dry climate or onto a very hot/dry surface, the stone and wall surface should be wet to prevent excessive absorption of moisture from the mortar. This can be done by spraying water onto wall surface and on stone. The stone and wall surface should be allowed to dry for a few minutes after wetting to eliminate excess surface water. Regardless of the weather conditions for Jointless/Drystacked installations the stone needs to be dampened at all times. Under cold weather conditions, applications should be protected from temperatures below 45° or freezing.

Grouting the Joints

There are three basic grouting styles to choose from, each with their own unique look: A standard (raked) mortar joint is about one fingertip or ½” in width. A tight-fitted joint uses little or no mortar in joints to obtain a clean and Drystacked appearance. The wide or the overgrouting technique, the mortar is applied so liberally it overlaps the face of the stone making the stonework appear aged and rustic, having an Old World look and feel.

Finishing the Joints

When the mortar joints have set a little (about 30 to 60 minutes), use a metal or wooden striking tool to rake out the excess mortar to the desired depth while at the same time forcing the mortar into the joints to fully seal the stone edges. After working the joints, use a dry stiff bristle brush or whisk broom to smooth the joints and clean away any loose mortar from the joints and stone face. CAUTION: Do not use wet sponges or brushes to wipe the joints or clean mortar off the face of the stone as it will smear and stain. Also, never use wire brushes or acid on the stone surface.

Cleaning Stone Surface

To clean dirt or other particles from the stone, use water and a soft bristle brush to scrub the excessive dirt. If efflorescence does occur, as it does with most concrete products, it is usually caused by moisture migration through the masonry substrate when the stone is saturated. Once the moisture is on the masonry surface, it evaporates, depositing the dissolved salts in the form of efflorescence. The efflorescence will naturally disappear with time. CAUTION: When cleaning stone do not use pressure washers, wire brushes, acid or any kind of chemicals as it will damage the stone surface. See Technical Info for details on warranty.